Mumbai, India
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Sunday, April 4, 2010

bpb Review: Golden Grill

Golden Grill is Bandra’s latest street side eatery, and not the best looking of the restaurants on Carter Road. Still, we decided to take a chance on this new kid on the block who until a week ago went by the name of Lisantro. Good thing we did; Golden Grill is quick, cheap and satisfying.

Desparately Seekh-ing Customers

Lisantro’s multi-cuisine menu has (thankfully) been drastically cut down, leaving behind only standard Indian fare. After much prodding, we learned that the management behind Maroosh plays a pivotal role in this new establishment, a piece of information that gave us hope and courage to order as we sat alone in this little restaurant.

But sitting solo also meant we could indulge in all kinds of hardcore Mughlai sins without judgmental glances. The Mushroom Dahi kebab (Rs 170), for instance, which were melt-in-your-mouth good, with riffs of clove and cardamom; and succulent strips of lemony, buttery Chicken Seekh kebab (Rs 185), the high point of the meal.

Turning Tikkas

For mains, we got the Dal Maharaja (Rs 140), which in spite of being a little salty, was delicious and went well with the basket of airy roomali rotis and platter of kababs. Also a winner was the chef’s recommendation of Rogan Josh (Rs 200), an aromatic lamb curry that took our dinner from generous to indulgent.

While tasty, it is imperative to point out that like its menu (and music line-up), the food here is pretty generic. The black dal for instance, will probably taste the same two doors down at Kareem’s or Open Affair. The advantage here could be the fact that you won’t have to wait for a table, at least for now.

Getting there: Golden Grill, A/4-5, Gagangiri premises, off Carter Road, next to Movie Empire, Bandra (W), call 9833616222 for home delivery, Rs 500 for meal for two, no alcohol.

At bpb, we review restaurants anonymously and pay for our own meals.

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