bpb Review: Lemon Grass

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First Day First Show

As the first walk-in customers at Lemon Grass’s opening night yesterday, we could almost smell the paint drying. The menus were abbreviated and on paper instead of wood (which they plan to upgrade ASAP), a couple of the light bulbs were naked, and our plastic coasters still had tags on them (they’re from Ikea and made in Korea).

Yet, this Asian eatery seems much more sure-footed than most new restaurants. That’s probably because versions of it have toured around the city, moving from another spot in Bandra to Lower Parel before taking over the space formerly occupied by Pot Pourri on Turner Road.

Noise Pollution

An immediate drawback, and one that hits you as soon as you enter the space, is how noisy it is. Some of this is due to the easy-going bonhomie that pervades any good restaurant, but a distressingly large amount of it comes from honking rickshaws on the busy street (which cannot be helped), along with a whirring blender and startlingly loud East Asian music (which really must be fixed).

Décor-wise, Lemon Grass manages to side-step the typically red-and-gold colour scheme, choosing instead much nicer moss green walls painted with white flowers, wooden furniture and pretty lanterns with cut-out stars. Soothing and restful, it dilutes the frenetic cacophony a little.

Taste Buds Take Over

The largely delish – and often fiery – food goes a long way in accomplishing that goal as well. The spicy, mushroom-studded Tom Yum soup (Rs 105), especially. The chilly straw potatoes (Rs 85) are equally spicy and addictive, as is the Bangkok crispy chicken (Rs 125). Mild without being bland, the silky shitake and water chestnut dim sum (Rs 135) is the perfect foil for these.

Mains feature cuisines from as far as Tibet and Sri Lanka, along with the regular Pan Asian countries. We especially loved the cottage cheese, bok choy and veggies in black bean sauce (Rs 215), a regular dish made novel by the nutty, herby gravy that tastes a little different with every bite. Get this with the spinach and burnt garlic fried rice (Rs 120), or order a stir fry bowl (start at Rs 245) – a saucy, satisfying meal unto itself.

The Last Sip

Desserts are limited and disappointing, especially since they’re advertised as Pot Pourri’s selection, which was famous for its sweets. These will probably improve – the chocolate truffle cake was only passable once warmed – but in the meantime we suggest you opt instead for the strawberry guava slush, refreshing, fruity and subtly sweet – a fitting end to a tasty meal, carefully cooked and warmly comforting.

Getting there: Shop no. 4, Carlton Court, Turner-Pali Road junction, Bandra (W), call 26429193, Rs 500 per head without alcohol (liquor license pending).

The Secret Scouters review restaurants anonymously and pay for their own meals.